perfumesilove

Luca Turin's perfume reviews @perfumes_ilove perfumesIlove@gmail.com

Ads now turned on

Respectable number of page views, let’s see what happens. Very curious to see what the ads will be (I don’t have any say). Air filters? Pheromones boost your attraction? No more unsightly something? Expensive HiFi? Visit Greece? Update: and the answer is, of course, that the ads will be different for every viewer….

Continue Reading →

Rising Phoenix Perfumery

Years ago a friend of mine who happened to be a Hi-Fi dealer in Nice (we met as a result of me sitting on the couch in his listening room for days on end) told me that the most impressive recording he ever heard was a direct-to-wax recording of Enrico Caruso on a mechanical Grammophone. The sound, he said, was completely inadequate by modern standards, but there was a magical freshness to it […]

Continue Reading →

Rrose Sélavy (Maria Candida Gentile)****

Rrose Sélavy was the pseudonym of Marcel Duchamp’s female persona. The old prankster made sure it could mean many things, possibly an ironic take on rose-tinted glasses commonly used to look at life. MCG has named her soliflore after her. The list of materials reads like a Dada poem: Rose petals Turkish rose May rose Rose accord Michelle rose Rose stems Rose leaves Rose is a hard thing to get right, because none […]

Continue Reading →

Nu_Be

Nu_Be sent me their “elements” sample collection, eight fragrances going from Hydrogen to Curium. In order to do them justice as compositions, I’m going to have to ignore the complete disconnect between the element and the fragrance. This, incidentally, was not inevitable: carbon, oxygen and sulfur at the very least could have been far closer to the idea that a fragrance chemist might form of their influence on odor character. Oddly, the two […]

Continue Reading →

Angela Ciampagna

One of the many wonderful things about the Web is the fact that you can set up a perfumery in a heavenly small hill village in Italy’s Teramo province and expect, all being well, to become known all over the world and thrive. Angela Ciampagna’s collection is beautifully presented and comprises nine fragrances. My two favorites are Liquo and Nox: Liquo: I always think of liquorice as vetiver’s friendly sibling, and it is an […]

Continue Reading →

Coolife

I had not heard of Coolife, and probably a good thing too, because the naff name and the glib patter on their first fragrance “It harnesses the power of scent […] to unite lovers in an irrational and convulsive attraction” would have put me in a grim mood. As it was, I smelled them first and read them later, which turns out to be generally a good idea. The Parfums are straightforwardly numbered from Premier to Quatrième. The first […]

Continue Reading →

Aqua Sextius (Jul et Mad) ****

My Latin is sparse and rusty, but still good enough to know that stringing two nominatives together, as in Aqua Sextius*, will not get you into Oxford. But Guerlain (Aqua Allegoria) gets away with it, so why not? The fragrance, composed by Cécile Zarokian, is a technical marvel. I’ll wager that every oil house has analysed this one to death and told its perfumers to copy it. It belongs to that very small […]

Continue Reading →

Lavorato!

The Camparino bar was open today, and I ordered a Lavorato Secco: 1 part Cent’erbe liqueur, made by Zucca exclusively for the bar, 1 part Campari, 1 part Rabarbaro Zucca, a spritz of seltzer and a slice of orange. A large, impatient, ravenously hungry guy next to me was eating crisps by the fistful under the disapproving eye of the barman. The kind lady at the till (pay first, drink later) explained that faithful customers […]

Continue Reading →

Shameless plug

Last November, with a lot of help and a foreword from Tania Sanchez, I published a collection of monthly columns I had written (in English) for the magazine NZZ Folio in Zurich over a 10-year period. They were initially about perfumes and smells, and later branched out to other things. Self-publishing was overall a very satisfying experience. The Kindle version can of course be read on any machine with the app, […]

Continue Reading →

The Atmos Clock

If I may digress from perfume for a moment, while passing a watch repair shop today I was struck by the fact that very few objects out there are simultaneously as sad and as fascinating as the Atmos Clock. Sad, because its neoclassical fifties look reminds one of grand municipal buildings in glamor-free places like Brussels. Sad because the very slow motion of the torsion pendulum (2 swings every minute) suggests […]

Continue Reading →