Luca Turin's perfume reviews @perfumes_ilove

Angela Ciampagna

15321043.jpgOne of the many wonderful things about the Web is the fact that you can set up a perfumery in a heavenly small hill village in Italy’s Teramo province and expect, all being well, to become known all over the world and thrive. Angela Ciampagna’s collection is beautifully presented and comprises nine fragrances. My two favorites are Liquo and Nox:

Liquo: I always think of liquorice as vetiver’s friendly sibling, and it is an unusual note in perfumery, notably prominent in the great Yohji Homme and few others. To me liquorice is inseparable from childhood and a particular liquorice powder I used to buy for pennies in a small metal box called Coco Boer, recently revived. Liquo avoids needless complication in what should be, and is, an innocent fragrance. The drydown veers towards an entirely pleasant coumarinic tobacco note.

Nox: I was struck by the fact that Ciampagna’s website bravely mentions “woods and notes that recall moulds”, not the sort of thing that would be considered on-message at LVMH. Nox is a clever accord of dry woods and what is irritatingly called a salt accord in contemporary perfumery, i.e. a vaguely mineral, almost musty leather note. Nox smells like a cool vaulted crypt in which mass was recently performed. Lovely stuff.

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Categories: niche houses, Uncategorized