perfumesilove

Luca Turin's perfume reviews @perfumes_ilove perfumesIlove@gmail.com

Rouge Bunny Rouge

rouge-bunny-rouge-logo.jpgRouge Bunny Rouge is a beauty products and fragrance outfit started in 2005 by Yugoslav-born Alexandra de Montfort. It is based in the UK but launches its products in Russia. This is an odd bird among niche companies: it clearly has an intense and focused visual art direction in a mock-baroque style, but the fragrance art direction seems a bit more random, not least because RBR went to the big oil houses for its products. This usually results in being trampled underfoot and fobbed off with unwanted “shelf” products. But RBR must have struck up a good relationship with perfumers, probably increasingly desperate these days to do anything remotely creative. The overall feel of the range is one of mostly good ideas and interesting compositions, though many would have benefited from upping the formula cost. But Swiss outfits like Givaudan and Firmenich did not get rich by throwing money away. My favorites are Vespers, composed by Givaudan’s Sonia Constant, a stonking woody rose with a well judged mixture of trashiness and style; Embers (composed by Shyamala Maisondieu also at Giv) that smells so convincingly of burnt matches that it will probably set off smoke detectors in aircraft; and Allegria, a fresh, melancholy and very original mint-hawthorn-grapefruit confection, also by Sonia Constant.

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