perfumesilove

Luca Turin's perfume reviews @perfumes_ilove perfumesIlove@gmail.com

My ship came in

Finally, after endless tribulations with the ever-industrious Greek Customs, several forms filled and various fees paid, the Auphorie parcel came today. Miyako smells amazing, slightly different and a touch smoother than the samples I had so far. Just drop-dead wonderful. Now I have to work up the nerve to wear it. Pic credit: my iPhone 🙂

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Carrots Pompeii

All these smoky niche fragrances put me in the mood for barbecue, plus I’ve been reading all these articles that say you can grill anything and it turns out delicious. So I decided to add a bit of rooty iris, in the form of three large carrots, to the other stuff, but they took hours to cook and I forgot all about them. This morning they weigh about a gram each. […]

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Perfume fruit flies love

Our latest article (mostly the work of the first two authors, postdoc Alex Gaitainidis and grad student Efi Drimyli) showing that flies can tell isotopes apart regardless of whether the enzymes that degrade odorants are working or not. Also that various species of Drosophila that diverged 40 million years ago are all able to smell the presence of deuterium in an odorant molecule. All evidence in favor of the fact that discrimination […]

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PR genius

I asked Trudon for samples and this came back. Dear Luca, thank you so much for your interest. Unfortunatly [sic], I am really sorry but we can’t send you some samples because your website does not correspond to our editorial line. Hope you will understand, best regards, Laure Meyers  Lifestyle Press Officer Editorial line? Next time I’m in Paris I’ll visit the shop, and report back. Update: A director of  Favori PR agency, Laure Meyers’ boss, just […]

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Blind Testing

Today I did some blind testing, unusual and always interesting: three numbered samples sent by Women’s Wear Daily for their Smell Test, the only such thing out there in the press, trade or otherwise. I can report that one sucked, a 2/3 scale and half-budget Amarige that had no reason to exist. Another was very nice but a bit boring. The third, assuming it is a mainstream fragrance, shows that the […]

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Vilde Frang

Last night I discovered the existence of Vilde Frang, a young Norwegian violinist of mind-blowing brilliance and musicianship. Her Korngold (yes, yes, I know, more korn than gold ) Concerto is the best on record. For those old enough to remember, in the second movement her sound in the upper register reminds me of the heavenly heights of Henryk Szeryng and Nathan Milstein. If she ever comes to Athens I’ll be there, in […]

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Mendittorosa Odori d’Anima

Mendittorosa was founded four years ago by event organiser Stefania Squeglia to fulfill a childhood dream of making perfumes. Se wrote me some time back that it was not easy to find perfumers to translate her artistic direction into smell, but in the meantime she clearly succeeded. The Paris-based composition house Flair appears to have done the entire collection of samples she sent. Insofar as one can ever talk of “schools” of […]

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Le Mat (Mendittorosa) *****

Many years ago I was standing in line with my girlfriend in a dismal Chinese takeaway in South London, well past midnight, when a young, pudgy, pale-faced young man behind us caught sight of my companion’s face. He put his hand to his mouth, took two steps back and in a shaky voice said “Blanche….. you’ve come back!” He explained that he had an obsession with a Victorian murderess, rummaged through his […]

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Rouge Bunny Rouge

Rouge Bunny Rouge is a beauty products and fragrance outfit started in 2005 by Yugoslav-born Alexandra de Montfort. It is based in the UK but launches its products in Russia. This is an odd bird among niche companies: it clearly has an intense and focused visual art direction in a mock-baroque style, but the fragrance art direction seems a bit more random, not least because RBR went to the big oil houses for […]

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Nishane

There’s a lot that appeals to me about Nishane’s emergence in the niche perfumery world. For one, I always get a thrill when I see an unusual top-level country domain like .tr on a company URL. The world is a big place, and a combination of Web and FedEx means that everyone in perfumery gets a bite at the apple. No point in pretending to have a PoBox in Grasse […]

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