Luca Turin's perfume reviews @perfumes_ilove

Mendittorosa Odori d’Anima

Mendittorosa was founded four years ago by event organiser Stefania Squeglia to fulfill a childhood dream of making perfumes. Se wrote me some time back that it was not easy to find perfumers to translate her artistic direction into smell, but in the meantime she clearly succeeded. The Paris-based composition house Flair appears to have done the entire collection of samples she sent. Insofar as one can ever talk of “schools” of perfumery, I would put these with Jean-Claude Elléna, meaning complex accords, both transparent and vividly colored, and always subtle without being pale or bloodless. Quality of materials is exceptional throughout. I have already mentioned Le Mat in a previous post.

My favorites among the rest of the range are Alfa,  a beautiful, and surprisingly long-lasting fresh accord of thyme and nutmeg that finally  lifts the curse attached to nutmeg  by Cacharel Pour L’Homme (1981), not a minute to soon; Sogno Reale, a rich, comfortable woody oriental; and Nettuno, a remarkable iris leather that restores some mystery to the currently much abused iris note by hiding it in the shadows of a complex woody-floral composition, from which it emerges at intervals. What I find most impressive is that these unisex fragrances make excellent masculines in the grand manner of thirty years ago. Nobody need wear Sauvage any longer. Very beautiful work.

Categories: niche houses