Luca Turin's perfume reviews @perfumes_ilove


nd.19835.jpgBig, beautiful fragrances like Vero Kern’s require a reset to older smelling habits and demand to be judged after at least an hour on a strip. Of  course until about 1980 all fragrances did, then the industry assumed that people have the attention span of a sedated gnat, and put all their money on the first fifteen seconds of pleasure (often followed by hours of repentance).

I hadn’t smelled her creations for years and am very sorry I didn’t. Another old-fashioned and welcome thing about her work is that the EDP and extrait are very different. Note that these are in no way retro creations, but inventive, novel things that happen to be done in the Grand Manner.

She sent Mito (2012) and Rozy (2014) in both versions. My favorite is Mito EdP, a terrific floral-green fragrance with a soaring, fresh, sumptuous accord of citrus, galbanum and magnolia at its heart that radiates superbly without being aggressive, and then tapers gracefully to a cistus-oakmoss drydown of outstanding quality and staying power. Put this thing on, and party like it’s 1969, Chamade just happened and Amarige never will.

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